Riding Into the Heart of Patagonia

As a NOLS instructor in Chile's Aysén Region in 1993, Nancy Pfeiffer watched a man on a horse gracefully navigate a swollen river. Standing with her college students, hungry and wet and not at all at ease, she vowed to return on horseback—to try to experience the land like a local. At the age of 38, she saddled up for lessons at home in Palmer, Alaska, where she worked as a mountain guide, and few years later she was back in Coyhaique, looking to buy a horse and head south. Riding Into the Heart of Patagonia is a memoir of growth—of a self-reliant adventurer learning patience and ceding the urge to control—and also of a changing countryside, with dams proposed and roads being paved. Pfeiffer's observations beckon: flowering calafate, gnarled branches in the lenga forest, the deeply rooted, welcoming people. It all smells of horsehair and rivers and mud and maté, and I didn’t want any of it to end.