Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
William Finnegan
William Finnegan's memoir is the best book ever written about surfing, and it's not close. Decades of wave-hunting across five continents, from childhood in Honolulu to middle age in New York, rendered in prose that captures the exact texture of water moving over reef. It won the Pulitzer for a reason.
Ocean & Coast
surfing
Memoir
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